Make sure
that the cables are routed correctly to their respective carbs. The cables are
numbered at the junction from 0-4 with 0 being the oil cable. The cylinders are
numbered LF=#1, RF=#2, LR=#3, RR=#4.
The
longer of the two choke cables goes to the #4 carb.
Adjust
all 4 Throttle Stop Screws
Front screw, flush w/ carb body—slot pointing straight up & down.
Back knob, set 3mm gap between knob &
carb body.
Slacken
all 4 Throttle Cables
That means make them loose. When the twist grip is used to pull on the
main throttle cable a little bit the carb slides do NOT move.
Adjust
Throttle Cable Free Play
Adjust
the cable slack at the grip to have a 1-2mm of play only.
Wrap a
bungee cord or some 1/8” vinyl hose (or clothes line, or 12ga wire, etc.) 1.5
times around the throttle between the stock grip and the housing to act as a friction
brake to hold the throttle stationary while synchronizing the carbs.
It is Very
Important to adjust the right side first.
Use a
flashlight to properly illuminate the dot and throttle bore to dispel shadows
The left
side adjusters typically ride 3 turns higher than the right side. It's just how
the
cables are cut.
Adjust
Oil Pump Cable.
Screw all 4 Idle Air Screws all the way in.
Set all 4 Idle Air Screws to 1 ½ turn out.
Start engine.
Feel all exhaust pulses & adjust Throttle Stop Screws
until each cylinder is working as hard as all the others, while adjusting the
Throttle Stop Screws as necessary to obtain good idle.
Perform Final Idle Air Screw adjustment:
a.
Ride
bike on straight flat level surface at idle with throttle
completely shut. Idle along on the carbs only; Throttle Cable
must be completely slack.
b.
Crack
Throttle the least little bit possible and note how the bike responds. Repeat a
few times so you are sure of what is happening.
c.
Screw
all 4 Idle Air Screws all the way in.
d.
Turn
back out to new setting.
e.
Repeat
ride test (a-d) until optimal throttle opening behavior is exhibited.
It’s
always best to start at the bottom of the carb performance and work towards Wide
Full Open.
I found a
place that is totally flat and has negligible traffic. OK, no place on earth is totally flat, everywhere has some tilt to it. I found a place where the terrain is as flat
as a cookie sheet tilted a little bit. This is important because in order to adjust the air screws the bike
must be able to move under its own power with the throttles TOTALLY closed.
Run all
tests rolling “downhill” as it is easier to run on a closed throttle that way.
Talk
about an exercise in self control. It is
hard for me to even think about riding my Gamma at 3mph.
The trick
about air screws is they affect the first little bit of throttle opening. Even 1/8 throttle is too much. In order to test air screws one must be
idling in first gear with the throttle totally closed BEFORE the test
starts.
I had to open
my throttle stop screws another 90 degrees a bit to even reach that point. Once it would roll along with the throttle
closed the air screw adjusting began.
The trick
is to open the throttle the LEAST LITTLE BIT POSSIBLE and then HOLD IT THERE to
see what the bike does. It is really
tempting to give a little bit more throttle twist to get it to act
normally. Can’t do it or the test is
invalidated.
Start out
by turning the air screws all the way in then backing them out 1 ½ turns (which
is the stock setting).
Ride
along at idle then crack the throttle a little and see what happens. Do this several times to get a reliable
reading.
Now go
back and turn the screws all the way in then back them out to the next setting
to be tried. Adjust the screws in ¼ or ½ turn changes until optimal throttle
off->on pickup is achieved.
