	Here you have it. This fine kit from Maranello Engineering is tailor made for addressing the shortcomings of the stock Gamma transmission. Parts included are a new input shaft with 12t 1st gear, 28t driven gear with needle bearing pivot, new design 2^nd / 6^th /3^rd gears with new undercut dogs and massive strength for smooth positive shifts. Ratios are stock with the exception of a taller 1^st to close the gap between 1^st and 2^nd.
	Drain the oil from both drains. Remove the kickstart lever and clutch actuator arm from their splines. Pull the screws from the clutch cover (note that the 3 long screws go in the middle, 1 high and 2 low) and remove the cover to expose the clutch assembly.
	Remove the clutch springs, pressure plate and plate stack. Bend the lock tab away from the net and remove the 27 mm clutch nut. I use a Harbor Freight electric impact and deep socket set http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html and here http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-deep-wall-metric-impact-socket-set-67904.html To keep the inner hub from spinning, I use a large screwdriver held between the spring posts. As long as you are using an impact rather than a breaker bar or ratchet this will not damage the hub. Do not attempt to use this technique when winding up pressure with hand tools. You WILL break the hub at the post if you do
	Remove the inner clutch hub to expose the first thrust washer (the smaller diameter and thinner one)
	Remove the outer clutch basket to expose the larger thrust washer. At this stage, look for the thick washer on the kick shaft to confirm its presence
	Remove the retaining clip and washer from the shift shaft (just below the c/s sprocket) and remove the shift mechanism
	Bend the lock tab down on the countershaft sprocket. Remove the nut with a 32 mm socket and impact. If the motor is in the bike, this is best done while the chain is still on the sprockets. When it is loose, move the rear wheel forward and take the chain off the rear sprocket toward the inside of the wheel to facilitate removal of the chain and front sprocket
	Bend down the lock tabs on the cassette retaining screws and remove the 6 nuts and one bolt. Be sure to keep track of the bearing retainer tab on the bolt
	It helps to have a pocket magnet for this step to capture and remove the retainers
	At this point the trans cassette assembly should come right out with a light tug on the kick and input shafts. DO NOT apply inward force on the kick shaft. Always pull out from the cassette plate or the kickstart mechanism will unwind and require attention to re-assemble. If this happens, give me a call and I will make a low ball offer for your bike at the opportune time…
	If the trans needs a little coaxing just give the tranny output shaft a tap with a mallet
	Now you’ve gone and done it! You are staring at the very innards of your Gamma with no hope of ever getting it back together. In this view, you can see the 3 shift forks and 2 support shafts. The forks with the large mouths are for the output shaft and the one narrow mouth fork is for the input shaft. The long support shaft handles the 2 forks and the short one the one fork. Note the location of the neutral switch button in the end of the shift drum. This sits on a spring to contact the neutral switch. Also, note the thin washer on the kickstart oil pump drive tower. Do not confuse this washer with the thick one on the kickstart shaft. Be sure that the 2 locator dowels are either in the cassette or in the engine case where they belong. These assure proper spacing for the primary gears
	Grasp the splined end of the output shaft and wrest it free from the cassette assembly. Note the location of the thrust washer on 1^st gear
	Remove the input shaft with a few taps of a mallet
	Locate and remove the 1^st gear thrust washer
	Slide off the 1^st and 5^th gears, stacking them in the exact order they came off with their proper orientation preserved for review
	Use a QUALITY pair of snap ring pliers with one-piece tips (not the interchangeable junk) to remove the first retainer clip. It will be helpful to have on hand both straight and bent type pliers that are for expanding snap rings. Snap On and Sears are your friends
	Remove 4^th gear and maintain your gear parts stack. You can start another stack with 3^rd gear. Remember the proper orientation. Here you see the star retainer system that holds 3^rd gear in place. Remove the bent tab retainer and rotate the splined washer to remove 3^rd gear
	Inspect these retainers and look for excessive wear or bent splines from previous transmission issues. If they are damaged, they must be replaced
	Remove the remaining snap rings and gears to strip the shaft being careful to keep the proper assembly location and orientation of each part
	Once you have the output shaft stripped bare you are ready to re-assemble with the new components
	Slide the new 2^nd gear onto the shaft
	Replace the splined washer from the old 2^nd gear
	All snap rings are replaced with new ones supplied with the kit. Secure 2^nd gear in place with the snap ring
	Place the new 6^th gear onto the shaft as shown
	Install the next retaining snap ring
	Install the new splined washer supplied with the kit
	Install the new splined support bushing supplied with the kit
	Both of these parts go on either way. There is no specific orientation other than washer first, then bushing
	Install the new 3^rd gear as shown
	Re-install the lock ring and rotate into the proper position. Re-install the star retainer, engaging the tabs with the outer splines
	Re-install 4^th gear with splined thrust washer (note that some 4^th gears came with splined inner bushings like what are supplied with the new 3^rd gear. Either system is fine) and install new retaining snap ring
	Re-install 5^th gear
	Install new washer and needle bearing supplied in the kit
	Install the new 1^st gear and original thrust washer. The output shaft is now ready for re-assembly of the cassette
	Let’s move on to the input shaft. Locate the first snap ring on the shaft (NO, it is not under the 2^nd gear and inaccessible) and move it inboard toward the 3 / 4 gear
	Here is a better angle of what I am referring to. Note the type of pliers end used for this operation.
	NOW, you can slide 2^nd gear down the shaft to expose the hidden clip wire holding it in place. Remove it with a small screwdriver
	This often distorts the profile which can be corrected
	I use a slightly out of focus pair of pliers to squeeze the clip back into shape
	It should look like this when you are done
	Remove 2^nd and 6^th gears and the inner bushing for 6^th, remembering to reproduce the stacking order of all parts as they come off the shaft
	Remove the next snap ring (the one you first moved aside to begin dismantling the shaft) and remove the 3 / 4 gear
	Remove the last snap ring and 5^th gear with bushing taking note which way the bushing shoulder faces against the gear
	You are now ready to replace the old shaft with the new one and re-assemble the gear stack with new snap rings
	Replace 5^th gear as shown
	Time for the first snap ring
	Install the 3 / 4 gear as shown
	Place the next snap ring on past the groove to prepare for the installation of the end wire
	Install the 6^th gear and bushing as shown
	Install 2^nd gear and the retaining wire
	The retaining wire should be securely in place and out of focus just like this…
	Slide the 6^th gear and bushing toward the end of the shaft and drop the snap ring into its groove to lock things in place
	Things should look like this when you are done. If this shot still looks out of focus, you may want to forgo any more celebratory beer until you are done with the job
	Do you want to come back to this when you are feeling better?
	Re-insert the input shaft assembly into the cassette
	Work the output shaft into place by separating the 1^st gear a little and jostling into position being careful not to displace the 1^st gear thrust washer
	Things may look something like this when you are getting close. If you think this is tough, try holding a camera while you are doing it…
	On occasion this process will dislodge the dreaded kickstart gear assembly. No big deal
	Make sure the parts underneath look like this before refitting the gear assemble and you are good to go. If things got sprung, you may have to remove the spring and plastic guide from the other side of the shaft and start over. Having trouble, call me and I will talk you down from the ledge…
	There, that’s better
	Confirm that the thin washer is where it should be
	I have found it helpful to grease the plunger for the neutral switch to keep it from falling out when coaxing the transmission into place. You can thank me now or later
	To recap, long shaft with big forks, short shaft with lone fork
	Assemble the shift forks as shown here
	And here…
	And here
	Position the oil pump drive tab to point toward the corner cassette stud
	Position the oil pump drive slot to match. When you guide the cassette assembly input the case, grip by the kickstart shaft and input shafts. Remember not to allow inward movement of the kickstart shaft or you will soon become an expert on how to reassemble EVERYTHING. You were warned. Do not rotate the input shaft as you will change the orientation of the oil pump drive. A little wiggle is fine. When you are trying to get the trans to seat, be aware that sometimes the shift fork support shafts or the far side of the shift drum don’t quite want to drop into place. If the cassette studs are showing a few threads, you can lightly tap on the center of the cassette place with the end of a mallet to help things along. It can also be helpful to gently rotate the shift drum with a T-handle 10 mm wrench to get it to drop into place. Be sure that you can still get the chain over the end of the output shaft before seating the transmission. If things don’t feel right, start over. It is easier to do so now than to blindly tighten things down and damage who knows what. When the trans is in to stay and all retaining nuts and screws are affixed it is time for the shift shaft assembly to go back in. Remember the washer and retainer on the other end. You should have a plastic bushing in the case just before the washer. Make sure it is present
	This thin O-ring goes between the countershaft bearing and the steel collar that rides on the c/s seal. If you didn’t see it when taking things apart, it is probably stuck to the outside face of the c/s bearing. It may be wise to find it early on and set it aside for when the c/s collar and sprocket go back on. Speaking of which, do not wail on the c/s nut with a powerful impact. A few good squirts of the trigger will do. I have actually broken a shaft with excessive torque

RG500 Transmission Upgrade Installation